Page 6 - Australian Pork Newspaper

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What’s in a name when it comes to fair trade
SPENDING a few weeks in Portugal and Italy over September and October meant I’d have missed the editorial deadline for October’s APN, hence writing this pre-trip while contemplating the trip two days out from departure.
One expectation I have is enjoying some quality pork and processed meats, especially in Italy, where I have done exactly that in years past.
As for Portugal, where I’ve not been before, my understanding is it’ll be a bit more seafood driven while in Lisbon and Porto.
I can deal with that.
After all, sardines on toast, topped with turmer- ic, some garden greens, olive oil and balsamic vinegar has long been my go-to daily breakfast.
Of course, the Italians are famous for their char-
Cant Comment by BRENDON CANT
cuterie or traditional art of preparing and assembling cured meats and other meat products.
While we are well ca-
tered for down under with traditional Italian small- goods from the likes of market leader D’Orsogna and some smaller arti- san producers of conti- nental delights, place of origin eating and dining always adds a sensory hit akin to watching Steve Smith carve out a century against struggling poms.
That is, it’s an experi- ence like no other and one filled with pleasure and a lifetime of memories.
Cured meats, which is really what we’re talking about, are the result of the oldest possible food preservation and flavour- ing techniques and they come in many forms and lots of varieties.
I confess, there are re- ally none I don’t take a fancy to and I probably will indulge in most while in Italy.
Here’s a few examples of my understanding of where my taste buds are likely to take me in Italy:
• Prosciutto, made from the whole hind leg of a pig (the ham) and comes salt-cured and air-dried. Typically, it’s enjoyed in very thin slices and has a slightly chewy texture.
• Italian salami is tradi- tionally made from light- ly ground beef or pork combined with seasoning and animal fat, which is then stuffed into a casing. The sausage is hung in a controlled room where the vital fermentation process begins. The more time salami spends ferment- ing, the drier it will be, meaning certain types of salami will be juicier and fattier than others.
• Pepperoni, I under- stand created by Italian Americans in the early 1900s, is made from a mixture of finely ground beef and pork, with sea- sonings added to create
that savoury, slightly spicy f lavour.
• Pancetta, the Italian version of bacon, is made by seasoning a pork bel- ly side with salt and lots of pepper, curling it into a tight roll and then wrap- ping it in a casing to hold the shape. It’s cured, but not smoked.
• Coppa, or capicola, is made from the neck or shoulder of the pig, has a tender texture and is usually smoked and pre- pared with a variety of spices, herbs and some- times wine.
• Cacciatore literally means hunter, and folk- lore states hunters car- ried this little salami in their packs and ate bits for sustenance during the hunt. Cacciatore is typi- cally about 18cm long and is cured with the usual spices, wine and herbs. It tends to be a little chewier than coppa and prosciutto.
Interestingly and some- what alarmingly in some circles, the names of some of these products are un- der threat in Australia, with the European Union currently negotiating a free-trade agreement with Australia.
As part of this, geo- graphical indications, a form of intellectual prop- erty protecting the names of specific products, is a key element of the nego- tiations.
The EU is asking Aus- tralia to extend the pro- tection of these names from wines to spirits and foodstuffs.
I know that here in the west, at an August meet- ing called by IP Australia, Department of Agricul- ture and Food, and De- partment of Foreign Af- fairs and Trade, industry participants were asked by DFAT to forward any
☛ continued P8
Page 6 – Australian Pork Newspaper, October 2019
www.porknews.com.au
Australia is well catered for with traditional small- goods from the likes of market leader D’Orsogna.
The author’s occasional indulgent weekend breakfast complements the working week’s sardines on sour- dough toast, topped with turmeric and garden greens.